Kuressaare, Estonia

It’s great to be back on the road again, although the change of bikes worked very smoothly, it still felt like a setback. Still, everything feels great right now, Mister feels like it can tackle just about anything.

The problem now, is me!

After leaving the ferry, I rode 50 easy kilometers, met some very friendly bicycle tourers and finally decided to camp at an RMK campsite right next to the beach. After I had been there for a while, a German gentleman rode up and camped a bit further along. He was on his way to Nordkap and we had a nice chat.

I’ve been seeing a lot more bike travelers here along the coast compared to when I rode the Swamp Thing, not surprising I suppose, especially considering that most of them are riding old school touring bikes with 4 fully loaded panniers plus an extra bag over the rear panniers and a handlebar bag. Ortlieb of course, as a fair percentage of them seem to be German.

But you definitely meet the nicest people when long-distance touring. There is a special camaraderie among long-distance travelers.

Day 2 was spent riding along the coast, enjoying the scenery and finally taking the ferry to Hiiumaa, Dagö.

I found yet another RMK campsite near the beach and continued on my way the next morning.

There are lots of interesting things to see along the way, small villages, old farmhouses, and even old abandoned service stations.

I was on the lookout for anybody speaking Swedish, or something that sounded like it, as there are old Swedish colonies on the islands, but I had no luck.

I took the late afternoon ferry to Saareema, Ösel, and arrived at yet another great RMK campsite very tired after two 100 kilometer days. I’m not used to this yet!

Woke to a calm morning with fog, not much seemed to be happening at all.

Which suited me just fine as I was still tired. I knew from the start that the first month or so was going to take its toll on my body as I haven’t done any real preparation.

I was going to have to take it easy for a couple of days and let my body slowly get used to the new sitting position. Strangely, it is my wrists and hands that are suffering the most. My backside is coping and my legs have been reasonably ok, even though I can feel that they have been working.

After just 50 or 60 km, I found another great campsite (almost getting boring, isn’t it) and settled in for an early evening to get as much rest as possible.

It started raining during the evening and rained more or less all night. But I was comfortable in my tent, with plenty of room and stayed completely dry. Spent most of the night listening to an audiobook, Good Omens, and it magically stopped raining in the morning.

I don’t mind if it rains while I cycle, or during the night, just as long as it doesn’t rain while I’m either packing or unpacking my stuff.

The next morning my wrists were still complaining and my worse knee had started to tighten up and almost cramp at the back of the joint, so I decided that another shorter 50 to 60 km day was in order. Like most people, I have two knees, in my case one bad and the other worse.

A little over 50 km took me into Kuressaare, where I found a cheap hut with wifi so that I could charge my equipment and update the blog.

I had a walk around town, played tourist in the castle and had a nice dinner before sitting down and writing this.

Amongst other things, I found out that I am 1475 km from Berlin. Which shouldn’t mean anything as I wasn’t planning to go to Berlin, but I have found out that it is possible to get e-visas to Kaliningrad now and with that in mind, I might just continue on along the coast rather than turning east as planned. I’m not sure yet, but I know of a bikepacking trail that starts in Rostock and heads down past Berlin. From there I could cut east along the Check – Polish border, head to Krakow and then down through Slovakia to Hungary.

Decisions, decisions, decisions….